About RideBuildList

RideBuildList is one place to plan a truck build: pick your truck, stack the parts that fit it, see what each one claims to add, and get the lowest price we can find for it across the retailers we track. It is an independent site. It does not sell anything.

Who runs it

One person, a former ASE certified technician. ASE is the standard certification for automotive technicians in the United States. That background is why this site puts fitment first and treats a horsepower number as a claim until someone measures it.

Why it exists

Planning a build used to mean a dozen tabs: one site for whether a part fits, three more for the price, a forum thread for whether the claimed gain is real. The point of RideBuildList is to put all of that on one page per part, so you spend the evening deciding what to buy instead of hunting for it.

What you get

5,237 parts across 13 truck and off-road platforms, Ford F-150 to Toyota Tundra to Jeep Gladiator, each one checked for the years, engines and, where it matters, the cab and bed it fits. Every price is compared across the retailers we track and the lowest one is shown, with the retailer named and the day it was checked. Every horsepower or torque figure carries the label of where it came from. Use the builder to stack parts and watch the running total, or start from a build guide written for your truck.

What you can do here that most parts sites don't

Most parts sites stop at the price. These tools answer the next question: what the part actually does to your truck and your wallet.

Weigh your build. The builder adds up the shipping weight each maker lists for the parts in your build. Type in the payload from the sticker inside your driver's door, and it shows what's left for people and cargo. Parts that replace a factory part, like a bumper or a lift kit, show as a range, because makers don't list what comes off. Open the builder.

Build to a budget. Pick a goal (more power, better sound, a lifted stance, off-road armor or better lighting) and type what you want to spend. The builder fills it with parts that fit your exact truck at today's prices and never goes over. Power parts are ranked by dollars per horsepower, and every gain is labeled as the maker's claim. Open the builder.

Check a shop's quote. Paste a shop's parts quote, or snap a photo of a printed one. For every part number we recognize, you see the lowest online price we track and a typical install time beside the quote's number. The photo is read on your phone and never uploaded. A shop's price also covers its warranty, returns and time, so this is for asking good questions, not calling anyone out. Check a quote.

See what else a part needs. Some parts need something that isn't in the box, like a tuning unlock, a tune or longer brake lines. When the maker says so on their own product page, we show it on the part page and in your build, in their exact words with a link. If a maker only recommends something, we leave it out. If they list nothing, we show nothing.

The cheapest price wins. The buy button goes to the lowest price we found for the part, even when that store pays us nothing. We only send you to a store that pays us when two prices are tied.

How we label a gain

Tested means an independent dyno measured it. Claimed means the manufacturer said it. Estimated means we inferred it from comparable hardware that was tested. Treat tested as the most reliable and claimed as the least. Gains do not stack: two parts that each claim 20 horsepower do not make 40, and the builder says so when you combine them. A part with no published number is shown as having no published number, not given one.

How we check a price

Every price comes from the retailer selling the part, not from an estimate or a list price. We re-check them once a day, and each one is shown with the day it was last confirmed.

The number on a part page is the lowest one that clears three tests: the offer has to be in stock, it has to be a retailer whose price we are allowed to display, and it has to be recent. Anything we have not been able to confirm for fourteen days stops being used, so a price that has gone quiet disappears rather than sitting there looking current. That means the page sometimes shows a dearer retailer, or no price at all, when a cheaper one has gone stale. That is the intended behaviour: a number we cannot stand behind is worse than none.

Two marketplaces are handled differently because their terms require it. Amazon prices are never displayed here at all. eBay prices are shown only when they come from eBay’s own API and are under twenty four hours old. Neither one is used to work out whether a price has gone up or down, so the price history and the drop alerts are built from the other retailers only.

The cheapest offer wins on price alone. Whether a retailer pays us a commission is never part of that comparison, and only an exact tie is broken in favour of one that does. Most parts here route to a retailer that pays us nothing.

How we make money

Affiliate commissions on some of the links out to retailers. The retailer pays it; the price you pay is the same as going there directly. The cheapest price wins every time, whether or not that retailer pays us; only a tie goes to one that does. The full version is in the affiliate disclosure.

When something is wrong

Prices move and retailers change their fitment notes, so a number here can lag. If you find a wrong price, a wrong fitment, or a gain with the wrong label, email hello@ridebuildlist.com. Corrections go into the catalog, and every price shows the day it was last checked.

Not affiliated with, endorsed by, or sponsored by any vehicle manufacturer, parts maker, or retailer named on this site. Brand and model names are used only to describe what fits.